A Whale of a Tail

The island of Dominica (pronounced “doe mee NEE kuh”) is a volcanic island rich in natural beauty and vastly undeveloped to date. Like most of the eastern Caribbean islands, tourism is the main economy, but at Dominica the focus is on eco-tours to the rainforest, hot springs, and waterfalls as well as small mom ‘n pop hotels and restaurants plunked down in various elevations of the jungle-covered volcanic mountains. There are no large chain resorts at all. Part of the reason for this is undoubtedly that it’s just plain hard to build on an island where the mountains cover everything right up to the shoreline.

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Many locals live in poverty, but this existence is accompanied by a fierce pride in both governmental independence and the lush beauty of the island. Dominicans are also proud of their cricket pitch, which is substantial enough to house international matches. The international West Indies Islands team is playing South Africa at Dominica on June 4, and many locals were discussing the match during our visit.

We started our day with a whale watching tour, where we were lucky enough to see a big female sperm whale breach 3 times followed by a spectacular fluke and dive. Our guides are part of a whale research team on Dominica, and they were very skilled at scanning the horizon for irregular waves to find these beautiful creatures. The sight of the whale itself filled the entire boat with energy, but the enthusiastic shouts and yells of the whale team’s crew took us over the top. “Whale comin’ up at 1 o’clock!!” “There’s one breach, here come another!! Let’s haul ass to get over there!!” They even recognized the change in her swimming pattern seconds before she dove and shouted out, “Here it comes! Get rrreeady for it!!!” That gave me just enough notice to be able to snap the following pics:

A female sperm whale off the coast of Dominica

A female sperm whale off the coast of Dominica

Sperm whale fluke and dive

Sperm whale fluke and dive

We also did some snorkeling at Champagne Beach, where the volcanic activity under the reef causes hot streams of water full of tiny bubbles to flow out of the coral continuously. It fees like you’re snorkeling around in a big glass of champagne.

For the second half of the day we hired a taxi driver to take us up up up into the mountainous rainforest. It was a short wet hike to a couple of beautiful waterfalls, and then we had a shrimp and plantain lunch at tiny little restaurant in the heart of the forest with a breathtaking view of the river. Full success.

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trafalgar_falls

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Come On Ride the Train…and Ride It

The island of St. Kitts is a wonder to behold. Sugar plantation subsidies from Britain and the rest of Europe have dried up, so the country is in the process of switching primary industries from sugar production to tourism. Because the island remains largely undeveloped, its natural beauty and beautiful coastline is unmarred by highrise hotels and timeshare condominiums. Instead, the land is covered with a mixture of fallow sugar cane fields, volcanic jungles, and a smattering of tiny villages.

Scenic vista on the island of St. Kitts

Scenic vista on the island of St. Kitts

We started out our day with a short bus tour on the way to board an old scenic narrow gauge train that goes all around the entire island. We had a guide named Teddy who charmed a couple of our college students with his nickname “Teddy Bear”. Teddy mixed facts and descriptions about island history with down-to-earth humor and an endearing Kittsian accent–a charming island lilt peppered with British pronunciations. Everyone loved him.

One of Teddy’s helpful tips was about the myriad sheep and goats that roam all over the fields and roads of the island. The sheep have been sheered recently and since the two animals are very similar in coloring and general appearance, it can be difficult to differentiate them at a distance. Teddy made it easier: “De sheep have tails dat hang down loose, where de goats have tails dat stick out or up. So…dat’s how you tell the difference. If you kin see de ass, it’s a goat!”

If you can see de ass, it's a goat.

If you can see de ass, it's a goat.

St. Kitts is also known for its rich volcanic soil. The Carib name for the island is Liamuiga, which means “land of fertile soil.” Teddy says the soil is so rich that, “If you stand around in it too long, you’ll probably start growing, too. Everything grows here. Throw something out there, and it just starts growing.”

If they’re not involved in the blossoming tourism industry, many St. Kittsians are subsistence farmers. The fertile soil, warm weather, and manageable amounts of rainfall make subsistence farming easier than it might be in the states, but local residents face one difficulty that would be totally foreign to farmers around Indianapolis: green velvet monkeys. You think it’s hard to keep wabbits from eating your vegetables? Try defending your crops from a strong, clever, agile primate with opposable thumbs. The monkeys were brought to St. Kitts by the French in the 1600s as pets. Now they outnumber the humans 2-to-1 and are nearly impossible to keep away because they are a protected species. For a while local villagers tried to use dogs to keep them away. That worked for a while because at first the monkeys were scared of the dogs, but now they’ve learned to be friendly with the canines–so much so that they have been spotted riding around on the dogs’ backs from time to time!

The scenic train ride went all over the island, providing us with many picturesque vistas. A wonderful staff served us delicious piña coladas. Local residents waved and smiled to us in every village. A local a cappella group serenaded us with harmonic renditions of traditional island songs and old fashioned Christian spirituals (video below).

St. Kitts Scenic Railway from Sam and Shannon Bloomquist on Vimeo.

Scenic train ride around St. Kitts

Scenic train ride around St. Kitts

A phenomenal a cappella group serenaded us on the train as we toured the island.

A phenomenal a cappella group serenaded us on the train as we toured the island.

The people of St. Kitts are friendly and welcoming.  The kids are excited to wave at the staff and passengers on the train.

The people of St. Kitts are friendly and welcoming. The kids are excited to wave at the staff and passengers on the train.

The train conductor had a sweet Obama cell phone case.

The train conductor had a sweet Obama cell phone case.

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Forts, Food, and Pigeons

We spent May 29 walking around the old part of San Juan, Puerto Rico. We explored old forts, ate good food, and sweated out all of the water we drank in the heat and humidity. We started with a hike up the hill to one of the two main forts in the city, Castillo San Cristóbal. The view of San Juan from the top was amazing, and the fort made all the Patrick O’Brian stories we’ve read about early 19th century British navy battles with the French and Spanish come alive. It was easy to imagine Ol’ Goldilocks leading a secretive marine assault on the fort in the middle of the night.

Sam and Shannon at Castillo San Cristóbal

Sam and Shannon at Castillo San Cristóbal

View of Old San Juan from Castillo San Cristóbal

View of Old San Juan from Castillo San Cristóbal

After the fort, we checked out a couple museums and walked down to have lunch at a great local restaurant. Deliciously cold local beer was served in enormous frosty tin mugs…mmmmmm.

A huge mug of local Puerto Rican beer.  1.5 bottles only filled it halfway.

A huge mug of local Puerto Rican beer. 1.5 bottles only filled it halfway.

We closed out the day with a beautiful little coastal park that was chock full of over-exuberant pigeons fighting over food from locals and tourists alike. It was wild chaos and flapping of wings. Most of the kids (and many of the adults) in the park were a little freaked out by what felt like a Hitchcock-esque flock of attack pigeons. The video below gives you a sense of the mania.

Pigeons from Sam and Shannon Bloomquist on Vimeo.

Puerto Ricans feeding/being attacked by a mob of pigeons.

Puerto Ricans feeding/being attacked by a mob of pigeons.

Sam likes animals so much he doesn't even mind being a perch for "rats with wings."
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Whales Chasing Tail

I had a little bit of free time from the lab yesterday and got to sit in on a lecture Dr. Allen Schoenherr gave about whales and other marine mammals. It was a fun and fascinating talk, and it gave me some things to look for on the rest of the voyage. As luck would have it, shortly after Allen’s talk a couple of humpback whales were spotted surfacing and breaching off the starboard bow. Shannon and I missed seeing them, but we’ll definitely be on the lookout during the rest of the trip.

Allen says we’re also likely to see a pod of spinner dolphins at some point during the voyage. Apparently, they enjoy surfing and jumping in the wake of the ship, and the Explorer rarely sails the Caribbean without at least one encounter. Spinner dolphins get their name from their habit of spinning around and around as they swim and leap out of the water. No one knows for sure why they spin, but Allen thinks it might just be because it’s fun.

I also learned a few fun facts about other whale species. The sperm and gray whales were the most interesting to me:

  • Sperm whales make a clicking sound that is the loudest sound produced by any animal. The molecules of the ocean are so compressed at bottom of the whale’s dives that the very loud click actually temporarily paralyzes squid and other deep sea creatures, making them easy pickings for a hungry whale.
  • Sperm whales have the largest brain of any animal.
  • Sperm whales have a waxy substance called spermaceti in their snouts. When they start to deep dive, the spermaceti cools and compresses, giving them a negative buoyancy and allowing them to take a nap on the way down.
  • Gray whales always have a menage a trois during reproduction where one male holds the female and the other male gets down to business…ooh la la.
  • Who knew that academic lectures could get so racy?

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If you’re going to sin, sin boldly.

We’re back on board the MV Explorer for a couple weeks of fun visiting many different Caribbean islands. We plan to blog as much as we can about our various ports of call, but we’re likely to fall behind at some point because we’re a little busier than we were the last time we set sail. If you’re curious about our itinerary, here’s a link:
http://www.semesteratsea.org/voyages/overview/itinerary.php

Shannon and I are both working in the ship’s “casino”, which is to say that she’s behind the library desk, and I’m working in the computer lab. When the Institute for Shipboard Education purchased the MV Explorer from a Greek cruise company back in 2004, they got rid of all those jingling jangling slot machines and replaced them with beautiful rows of books and humming computer processors…much more to our liking and easier on our wallets. The staff and lecturers for this voyage include many repeats from the two voyages we did in Central America last May and others before that, so it feels like a family reunion with hugs and happy hellos all around. Around 50% of the passengers have sailed on some type of SAS voyage before as well, which makes all the staff and crew feel good about the experience we’re giving to them.

The first night we arrived on board, we were sitting out on the back deck of the ship contemplating whether to eat a large chocolate brownie for a late night snack. Our famous friend and shipmate Dr. Iain Campbell solved the dilemma with a bit of biblical wisdom from Corinthians: “Sin boldly, that the grace of Christ might be more manifest.” I haven’t been able to track down the exact verse just yet, but it is definitely the coolest verse in the Bible. I followed this advice, have no regrets, and plan to continue following it in the future.

Thursday night we also both had the privilege of seeing our first green flash. Very cool. On our last voyage every night that we were outside to watch for it, there were too many clouds on the horizon to see it.

The ship is sailing for Puerto Rico, and we’ll be there in just about an hour.

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Open Source JSON Can’t Compare to Three-legged Belizean Monkeys

Poor, neglected blog. Normal life as an Indianapolis software developer just isn’t as exciting to write or read about as three-legged dog-riding monkeys in Belize. Be that as it may, I do have a little something to share with the world today…and hopefully we’ll have more entertaining travel stories in the near future.

Geek Post Warning – those of you who are here for entertainment and are not particularly fond of the geeky software talk might want to skip the rest of this post.

I’ve been doing quite a bit of side development with Google App Engine for Java and the Restlet 2.0 framework as a backend server for a couple of different iPhone projects lately — Google App Engine is badass technology suite for web developers, but more on that some other time. JSON is a pretty important data interchange format for iPhone development, so I tried out a whole bunch of Java-to-JSON and JSON-to-Java serialization/deserialization open source libraries. There are plenty of options and lots of strengths and weaknesses to compare and contrast, but I eventually settled back on the first JSON serialization framework I learned, the JsonPlugin for Struts 2. One problem…I’m doing Restlet work now, not Struts 2. It turned out to be not too difficult to remove the Struts dependencies from the JsonPlugin code, however, and I’ve decided to release my changes back to the open source community under the Google Code project named “json-libre” – it’s the Struts2 Json Plugin code, freed from its dependence on Struts. Head nod to Garrett for helping me come up with a name.

Check it out here: http://code.google.com/p/json-libre/

I’m not crazy about forking projects, so I wrote the Struts Development team to see if they’d be interested in somehow making this part of the normal codebase. If I hear back from them and they’re interested, there’s a chance that this project might get deprecated and moved back into their codebase. For now it’s out there and free for your use.

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Saying Goodbye and Summing Up

Since we’ve been back home in Indianapolis, we’ve had lots of questions from our friends and relatives about our trip.  We love to talk about our experiences, but it’s really difficult to sum them up concisely.  We didn’t have one favorite country–we loved them all in different ways.  Belize’s vim and vigor stole our hearts.  Guatemala’s turbulent history–much of it thanks to our very own CIA–made us cry, but its gorgeous river canyon and lovely waterside dwellings warmed our souls.  We fell in love with Costa Rica’s gorgeous central highland region, probably because its cool breezes and cloud forests gave us a welcome break from the 98% humidity of 95-degree tropical temps.  Nicaragua–the biggest surprise of all–was delightful in every way, and it’s a place we’d like to return to in the future.  Jamaica’s beautiful beaches and reggae welcome made us smile.  The Panama Canal blew our minds…twice!

But all the wonderful archaeology, flora, fauna, literature, history, cuisine, and gorgeous terrain cannot hold a candle to the people we met on ship and shore.  In every port, we encountered friendly faces and learned something new about the land and ourselves. We drank up sunlight, moonlight, starlight, and the sound of the ship moving through the ocean with our awesome shipmates.  We saw the Southern Cross for the first time! We solved all the world’s problems together on decks 4, 5, and 6 aft, and it’s weird to go back to normal, everyday life after all that.  The MV Explorer is part of our history now.  Our experience on the ship is forever defined by the wonderful souls we got to know on board.  It was the people, rather than the itinerary, that made this the trip of a lifetime…so a photo montage of them seems appropriate right about now. It takes a while to load, and remember to turn your volume down or plug in your earphones if you’re at work!

Passage Through Panama from Sam and Shannon Bloomquist on Vimeo.

Eleven-year-old Nick Whittaker is the voracious reader/poet extraordinaire you see with us in the photo below. To end this final post about our fantastic voyage, we leave you with the poem he wrote just before disembarking from the ship for the last time. The blag will go blagward. It just won’t be about sailing through the Panama Canal anymore. But, we still have our memories…and the rest of our lives to get back to the MV Explorer for, as Iain says, another “taste of the lotus flower.”

nick

It’s time to say “bye”
To the MV Explorer
Our lovely experience
Is now all but over
It’s hard to leave
This wonderful cruise
‘Cause this is the one ship
We always would choose
To sail us across the sea
And go to many places
Like Belize and Jamaica
And see many new faces
So we are sad to leave
Even shed a tear or two
MV Explorer
We’ll always miss you
–By Nick Whittaker–

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Animal Welfare in Latin America

Much of our Latin American voyage has been fascinatingly, breathtakingly beautiful, but there are a few things we saw that broke our hearts. One is the living conditions of animals in nearly every country we’ve visited. When the people themselves are struggling to eke out an existence, animals get bumped down on the priority list or are neglected altogether. Sometimes, they are pointedly abused. We understand that the closer people in these countries move towards greater economic, environmental, and social success, the closer stray domesticated or wild imprisoned animals come to a chance for a happy life. You might remember our photos of Gumbo the monkey at Jaguar Paw in Belize, the dolphins at Anthony’s Key in Roatan, or Buttercup the sloth in Costa Rica. These are the bright spots of our trip–Latin American organizations that are setting a positive example by treating animals humanely. Everything was not, unfortunately, all sweetness and light:

We saw skinny, mangy dogs in every country completely ignored or kicked away by children and adults. In the countryside and the cities, we found sickly monkeys, goats, dogs, chickens, pigs, and donkeys tied by their necks to trees with no more than a couple feet of give on the rope. Ferral cats were everywhere, and like the dogs, they all exhibited symptoms of severe skin and eye disease and malnourishment. Some dogs and cats would come to us when offered food or love, but most shrank away in fear.  Animals born to be companions were hurting, and animals born to roam the wild were tied up. The worst of it? Tourists–mostly American–pay to keep wild animals in their obvious misery. A few dollars for a photo opportunity or a chance to pet a wild or exotic animal, and in return that animal is caged and used for income. Upon death it is replaced with another…and the cycle continues.

This problem is not unique to the Caribbean or Latin America, and animal welfare organizations exist there like they do here–but fewer, with much less funding and almost no public support. See World Animal Net’s Country Directory for contact information. Animal welfare issues are a worldwide problem, and several international organizations are working to improve the situation by promoting awareness and supporting local groups in each region of the world that work to make a difference:

Words cannot do justice to what we saw, but maybe the above photographs will help you to see through our eyes on the trip.

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Life’s a beach.

Life on the ship was crazy busy during the last couple of days of our voyage, so we had little time to blog and reflect. Good thing we missed our connecting flight to Indy thanks to rain delays in Fort Lauderdale. We finished the Belize post! Good thing our bags didn’t make it on the plane with us to Indianapolis…it gives us a reason to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi at the Indy airport to write this post! As a certain someone’s cell phone ring suggests, always look on the bright side of life. 🙂

From the moment we stepped back on the ship after Belize, the computer lab was hopping with tons of people needing help checking e-mail, confirming airline reservations, and printing out boarding passes. Oh yeah–did we mention that Sam was hired to work in the ship’s computer lab while at sea for the last two weeks of this trip? This was way cool because:
a) Sam received a much-coveted “red shirt” and was entitled to all the privileges and benefits therein
b) We are much more “hire-able” for future voyages now that we both have experience working on the ship

I was also swamped with a surprising number of in-depth reference questions, computer questions (though I only cover 2 computers to Sam’s 20-some) and a never-ending stack of books to re-shelve in the library. Among this chaos, we still had one more port to enjoy: Jamaica, mon!! And did we ever.

debbie_red_stripe

After taking many wonderful but highly structured day-long tours in each port, Sam and I just wanted time in Jamaica to max and relax with fellow staff and a few of the ship’s awesome lecturers. Because it’s such a popular spot for tourists, we were all a bit surprised to find a pretty healthy reef with great snorkeling at a small but beautiful beach in Montego Bay called Doctor’s Cave. We spread our towels under a shade tree and inherited some rented chairs and umbrellas from fellow shipmates who left them behind. Warm sun, refreshing aquamarine waves, Red Stripe beers, lunch delivered to our beach camp, delish Piña Coladas, and great music (thanks to Courtney’s pink power radio) made for one of the most restful and relaxing days of the voyage. It was a great way to wind down our month at sea, and it just proved to us even more that, while all good things must come to an end, it’s never easy to say goodbye. So, we didn’t. We just had some fun and saved the goodbyes for June 5.

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Totally Tubular

Back in Belize for a second visit, we hired a cab to travel up into the jungle and go cave tubing (floating down a jungle stream and through a number of large caves on inner tubes). The trek through the jungle to get to the start point for the tubing inspired us to make an 80’s butt rock music video of our experiences, but it will necessarily be rated R (hey–it’s Guns ‘n Roses–what other rating can it have?) so we won’t be posting it on the blog. The video is still in “post-production,” but it will be available upon request for those of you with less refined sensibilities.

rocking_tubes

The tubing experience itself was awesome and definitely felt like a Goonies adventure — “That’s what I said, booty trap!” The water was aqua, and the caves grew very dark in the middle so we all wore headlamps. The inside of the caves was a beautiful orange color, and bats and spiders were hanging out on the ceilings. Singing “Thriller” and other great songs through the caves with Courtney, Aaron, Graham, and our guide Miguel made the whole experience even more fun. When we arrived back at the Jaguar Paw Resort, we were charmed with the place. We had a traditional Belizian lunch and hot chocolate (we were all a little cold after floating through dark caves for 2 hours). We all decided that the resort, which is really more like a retreat and quite affordable, would be worth another trip back to Belize.

hot_chocolate

In addition to the tubing, a highlight of the day was a three-legged rescued howler monkey named Gumbo. He was raised with a pack of puppies and spends his days alternating between riding around the jungle on the back of his favorite canine companion and sneaking into cab vans when visiting touristas aren’t looking. After we had lunch at the hotel where he hangs out, we caught him snuggled up and taking a siesta with his doggy brother. He’s such a cute little guy. He even let Shannon pet him and scratch his back a little bit.

gumbo

shannon_petting_gumbo

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SHANNON BLOOMQUIST
librarian, writer/editor, floundering guitarist, breakfast addict

SAM BLOOMQUIST
mobile software developer, dog owner, hiker, adventure racer, enemy of bureaucracy
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