Locks of Miraflores

Here’s a quick shot of us going through the last set of locks in the Panama Canal today. If you zoom in you can see the black pixelated blob that represents the baseball cap I was wearing while hanging out on the observation deck. Poor Shannon was working in the library during this set of locks, so we can’t see her pixelated blob.

A big hearty thanks to Mary and Kelly for snagging this picture from the official Panama Canal webcams for us. You can check out a cool animation of our traversal of the locks over on their blog.



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Slow is Beautiful

In 1722, a French naturalist named Georges Buffon wrote, “These sloths are the lowest form of existence. One more defect would have made their existence impossible.” Buffon was not alone in his opinion. Sloths have been seen for decades as primitive animals incapable of adapting–lazy, stupid, and inept. One of the seven deadly sins, the word “sloth” gained a whole new meaning for us after we docked in Puerto Limon, Costa Rica, and visited the Sloth Sanctuary and Rescue Center of Costa Rica. The only one of its kind, the organization is run by the dedicated Arroyo family and a host of volunteers.

In 1991, the Arroyos opened a bed and breakfast inn where visitors could enjoy lush Cahuita rain forest surroundings with abundant birdwatching opportunities. In 1992, two neighbor girls brought them an orphaned three-toed sloth who would eventually die without her mother. After some research, the Arroyos realized that very little helpful information had been published about the sloth. They named the orphan Buttercup, and they learned how to raise her. She is still thriving at the sanctuary, and is, as you can see below, quite photogenic. (That’s Mr. Arroyo holding her.)

shannon_with_buttercup

Over time, people began hearing of their work and bringing more sloths to their door. Some suffered habitat loss, while others had been orphaned, electrocuted by power lines, run over by cars, or (worst of all) victims of senseless violence. An impressive 80% of the sloths received by the Sanctuary are rehabilitated and returned to the wild. Of the remaining 20%, those that survive their injuries but cannot return to the rain forest receive the love and care they need to live healthy and happy lives at the Sanctuary. Visitors can stay at the B&B for an extended period of time, but even if you stay for only a few hours like we did, you can learn a lot about sloths and about yourself.

Some interesting sloth facts:

  • They only move three miles per hour, which is why they so often get hit by cars.
  • The males have no visible genitalia. The females don’t seem to mind this. How do we know? They make babies anyway.
  • They are herbivores and come in two-toed and three-toed varieties.
  • They only sleep for about 8 hours a day, like people.
  • They have perpetual peaceful smiles on their faces.
  • They are curious, kind creatures…but they do have the ability to rip your face off. They just resist the urge.
  • As the Arroyos say, “We all know of sloths, but almost nothing about them.”

The Arroyo family isn’t just saving sloths–they are educating people and shifting paradigms the world over. In 1999, a group in Japan was so inspired by the sloth that they formed a worldwide NGO called The Sloth Club. Among other earth friendly missions, the club spreads the sloth gospel around the world by encouraging people to “shift from the culture of more, faster, and tougher to that of less, slower, and nonviolent.” I think Buttercup is pleased to know that she is helping the Arroyos to teach so many people that slow is beautiful.

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Traversing the Panama Canal

Bright and early tomorrow morning we will begin our first trip through the Panama Canal on board the MV Explorer. We are scheduled to enter the first lock at approximately 7:00 EST (that’s the same as 8:00 Eastern Daylight Time for all you northern and eastern landlubbers observing daylight savings time). The canal has webcams installed so that you can tune in and watch our progress if you’re so inclined.

Here’s the site: http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html

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Garifunas

In 1665 two ships full of Africans who were to become slaves in British colonies in the Caribbean sank near the island of San Vicente. The would-be slaves swam to island freedom and soon intermixed with local Arawak tribes to form a new society known as the Black Caribes or Garifunas. It was our privilege during our short stay on the island of Roatan, Honduras, to visit a Garifuna village, watch a couple of traditional dances, and learn a little about their way of life.

garifuna_dancer

In the 1760s, the ever-expanding British colonization of the Caribbean came into conflict with the by then large and prosperous Garifunas settlements resulting in a 32 year open war. In battle, the men would often wear women’s clothing, convincing their enemies to relax and drop their guard before springing upon them with surprising ferocity. They continue this tradition in their dances today. You’ll see the men dancing in brightly colored women’s dresses with masks, shells, and streamers like the one in the photo above:

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Me Encanta Guatemala

The welcoming people, lush rainforests, and picturesque landscapes of Guatemala won our hearts as we enjoyed a long and beautiful trip through the Garifuna village of Livingston, up the Rio Dulce River Canyon to the Ak’Tenamit boarding school/community development organization, and around the Mayan ruins at Quirigua (pronounced kitty gwah).

The coast of Guatemala is breathtaking, and the Rio Dulce river canyon looks like something out of Jurassic Park.



Our tour guide, Mary Ann — her id badge actually said “Maria Anita”, but I guess Mary Ann is easier for us gringos — was very knowledgeable about Mayan history and culture, and she even taught us to read Mayan numbers and do Mayan math. Scholars believe that the Maya must have used both fingers and toes when they first started thinking about numbers because they came up with a base 20 numeric system instead of our western base 10 system (the Greeks forgot about the toes). If base 20 alone doesn’t knock your socks off, consider that they only need three symbols to write any number. All the math nerds in the house holla back!

Things grow big in Guatemala. Check out tiny Shannon next to this really big tree:

But it’s not just the trees that are large and in charge in Guatemala. We couldn’t quite decide whether this golden orb spider had caught a small bat or a hobbit in its web.

We were already pretty much head over heels in love with Guatemala by the time the ship was ready to set sail, but just to make sure to push us over the top all the local tourism groups came out to play drums, dance, and send us happily on our way.

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Lamanai Archaeological Reserve

I’m trying to find time aboard this fun and busy ship to write about Guatemala and Honduras, but in the meantime here are a few more photos from our trip to the Mayan ruins at Lamanai in Belize.

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Love Me Tender

Belize is surrounded by beautiful corral reefs teeming with marine life. This means that sailing into the port and right up to a dock is impossible for cruise ships like the MV Explorer, and we passengers must tender a ride to shore. Loading onto the tender boats can be a little bit hairy for some of the older passengers with both the Explorer and the tender rocking and swaying in the waves. Thankfully, we had calm seas (by ocean standards) and all made it safely aboard.

Tendering a ride to shore in Belize

Tendering a ride to shore in Belize

Tendering — well, doing almost anything — is a lot more fun if you do it with an enthusiastic Scotsman by the name of Dr. Iain Campbell.

Shannon sports the windblown look after boarding a tender with Iain Campbell

Shannon sports the windblown look after boarding a tender with Iain Campbell

Once ashore, we set out on a tour to Lamanai, a set of Mayan ruins only accessible by boat. Our tour guide was the inimitable Captain Chino. I like a tour guide who cuts through the usual touristy schtick and mixes a healthy dose of personal opinion and patriotism in with the raw facts about a place. Captain Chino is just such a character: “Being a third world country doesn’t mean uneducated, it only means undeveloped. In Belize we are undeveloped, but we are smart and educated; and we are ready to grow. We might look very poor — and we are very poor — but we’re living in Paradise.” He was also full of practical common sense about traveling in a guided tour bus: “In 20 years of guiding tours I have seen many things. It’s un-Belizeable. Some people don’t want to stop me to go to the bathroom, and they end up, uh, peeing on the seats of the bus. This is embarrassing and not fun for anyone. We will have many stops to use facilities, but if you need to go when we’re not near a bathroom, tell me. I’m not kidding. We’ll find a tree for you to use or something. That would be much better for you and much better for me than going in your pants.” Well said, Captain Chino, well said.

The ruins were spectacular and fascinating, and we saw lots of wildlife both at the ruins themselves and on the way — spider monkeys, howler monkeys, iguanas, crocodile, many beautiful birds, and even a katamundi. These things weren’t exactly expected, but the preparation for the trip at least had us hoping for as much. What was totally unexpected, however, was the rollercoaster-like boat trip up the river to Lamanai. I think part of the reason Captain Chino likes living in Belize so much is that he gets paid to race up and down the river like a mad man, taking turns at breakneck speed and hydroplaning like crazy before accelerating out of one turn and into the next:

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Jamaica is banana, man.

A couple of days ago we had the good fortune of a day in port at Montego Bay, Jamaica. We really enjoyed our visit and loved the “no problem” spirit of the Jamaican people, but our hearts went out to the many poverty-stricken families we saw all around.

As our tour van turned onto a rutted and bumpy gravel road on our way to a banana plantation, our guide warned us about the coming bumps: “They didn’t tell you that you’d get a free butt massage as part of your tour today, did they? Yah, man. No problem!”

Dalton the Banana Man - the world's coolest banana farmer

Dalton the Banana Man - the world's coolest banana farmer

At the banana plantation we were escorted around by Dalton the Banana Man. I couldn’t believe how many uses they have for the banana plant. From cardboard to glue, rope, fishing line, and even panty hose, every single piece of the plant is used for something. Hearing him talk was definitely an exercise in shame at American wastefulness and inefficiency. He also taught me a new phrase to describe something rather unpleasant: “That’s not banana, man.” Shannon and I agreed that Dalton may be the coolest guy on the island and is certainly the coolest banana man we’ll ever meet. He finished his talk by serenading us with a round of Day-O (The Banana Boat Song) while balancing 60 pounds of bananas on his head. When we boarded the bus, our tour guide Marie asked us to tell her, “in Jamaican,” a bit about who we are, where we’re from, and what we love. In other words, we had to say: “Me name Sam, me from Indiana, me love Jamaica.” When it was Shannon’s turn, she said, “Me name Shannon, me from Indiana, an’ me love Dalton the Banana Man.”

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Looking for Boobies

Yesterday was an “at sea” day on board the MV Explorer, which meant more work for Shannon and more time enjoying the best job on the ship for me (i.e. freeloader, tag-a-long, T-Pain). I attended three fascinating lectures by University of Virginia professors Drs. Ricardo Padron, Max Brandt, and Iain Campbell.

Dr. Padron’s lecture was on Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, and he gave us a whirlwind overview of Mayan culture with the big theme that both time and space were sacred and pregnant with meaning for the Mayans. Their amazing and complex calendar system placed special emphasis on certain days and times in the seasons and years as being better for certain things such as marital bliss, healthy crops, and governmental decisions than others. One quick takeaway was that the Long Count portion of the Mayan calendar, which keeps track of the number of days since the beginning of Mayan civilization, will run out in late December of 2012 and bring an apocalyptic end to the world. Don’t fret, however, the world will be reborn after its destruction.

Dr. Brandt is an ethnomusicologist, and this particular lecture was about the African roots of Carribean music. Later lectures will cover the European and Native influences. We skimmed the surface of polyrhythmic drumming and clapping, and he taught us a relatively simple 3 vs. 4 drumming pattern. He then proceeded to divide the room in half with one half playing the 3-beat rhythm and the other playing the 4 while his assistent played a 12 beat ditty on an African bell. His quote after our performance: “Well, that was getting there, but it’s not exactly what the Africans would call tight.”

Dr. Campbell had much to teach about birds and some of the different species we can expect to spot on this fantastic voyage. I learned more about why our feathered friends are so amazing. For example, they have pass thru lungs that make super efficient use of the air that passes through them, giving them far greater aerobic endurance than I can ever hope to achieve with my piddly chest balloons. I learned about albatross, shearwaters, petrels, and fulmers with their pelagic lifestyles and saltwater-filtering nose tubes. And, of course, I learned how to identify the many variations of booby.

On the lookout for boobies (the red-footed, blue-footed, and brown variety),
Sam

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Ocean Sunsets

Yesterday was so full of fascinating lectures and ship life that I haven’t had a chance to write anything about it yet. Here are a couple of sunset shots I snapped in the meantime, however.

Sunset on the way to the Bahamas from Ft. Lauderdale

Sunset on the way to the Bahamas from Ft. Lauderdale

Sunset on the way to Jamaica from the Bahamas

Sunset on the way to Jamaica from the Bahamas

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SHANNON BLOOMQUIST
librarian, writer/editor, floundering guitarist, breakfast addict

SAM BLOOMQUIST
mobile software developer, dog owner, hiker, adventure racer, enemy of bureaucracy
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